In this post I would like to discuss some of the dominant aspects and characteristics of Larme fashion which are closely related to pretty big trends present in the last few years on the runways, some of which continue to grow in popularity these days. For example, as you may know, the lingerie trend has been pretty popular in the past year or so both in high fashion and on the streets. I feel that Larme incorporates inside itself a very interesting dynamic system which is co-dependent on trends nowdays as it is on its inspiration from all kinds of media, history and literature. I think it is important to remember that it is actually quite rare for a dynamic system as street fashion to be isolated,"frozen" in time and protected from influences. Now, I am not saying that the high fashion brands were directly influenced by Larme brands or vice versa. Nevertheless, I do think it's interesting to see how certain ideas or "feeling conveying" methods can be realized in the art of fashion design in our world, ruled by complex globalization, where ideas travel, change, and perhaps return to their origins reshaped and renewed.
(Yohji Yamamoto SS RTW 2015 / Ulyana Sergeenko FW Couture 2015 / Ank Rouge)
As you may already know, I am not very keen on making "explanation" posts, because I do not feel neither like I have an authority nor enough knowledge to do so. This post isn't meant to compare picture to picture Larme versus high fashion outfits but to show the (already) Larme-lover the global trends that are present both in high fashion and Larme, that perhaps can lead us back to similar influences. Therefore, I have decided to showcase key points that are dominant in Larme as you may find them in high fashion. Please keep in mind that the collections are not necessarily new (but it takes time for things as these to circulate, and trends tend to come and go, at times being more dominant than others). Remember that I am not trying to find looks that match Larme impeccably, but elements and trends which me and other Larme lovers enjoy in Larme and are happy to see on the runway (nor will I talk about the role that particular accessories and pieces of high fashion brands incorporated in Larme outfits serve in outfits of the sort).
I will include some no-brainers and very obvious choices as well as more complicated examples.
(Christopher Cane, SS RTW 2010 / Roberto Cavalli SS RTW 2009)
Layering: Larme loves layering, especially tank tops and lingerie babydolls on T-shirts. Both of these looks include layering. But not just any layering! The look on the left has the features of many Larme looks, such as the short babydoll and the gingham blouse (t-shirt like) underneath (although it doesn't give me a very stable feeling as larme tends to do, probably because all the materials are very flowy and there is no point of gravity). The right look is actually very interesting because it includes two of the most unique Larme fabrics- silk and sheer materials.
(Roberto Cavalli SS RTW 2009 / Esve SS RTW 2016)
Overalls: Ah! The ultimate Larme spring-summer trend was long overalls. But as always, one has to be careful, as not all kinds of overalls will do. The left presents a semi-sheer overall with satin details, giving off a very romantic and almost nightgown-ish vibe (the Pajama trend which Larme, among other styles, is very into). The right look is rather simple, but then again, so is the geometric rigid side of Larme. However, the color is a very calm, grown up beige-old rose, and the material is velvet. Both of these factors are also very dominant in Larme looks.
(Jill Stuart SS RTW 2013 / Blugirl FW RTW 2016)
Shapes: As mentioned before, the 50's style pencil-y skirt, featured in the left look- is extremely popular in Larme, and the same goes for the puffy sleeves and the sheer black, grown up feel of the outfit. The right outfit features a shirt tucked in a loose skirt. The peter pan collar is the important part here (it is a popular style of collar in Larme). And please, notice the fluffy baby pink shoes. Do you know in which style this color, material and shoe shape is popular (although not necessarily together as shown in this image)? You've guessed it- Larme. (Another important silhouette for Larme left unmentioned here is the 50's inspired flare skirt)
(Delpozo SS RTW 2014 / Francesco Scognamiglio SS RTW 2016)
Structure: Here's the thing, Larme loves clean lines and shapes, going for a rather"structured" look, with clean, straight lines (even when they are curved
or round- they are extremely precise and even, dare I say, geometrical
at times. You always know where one line ends and another begins). As you may notice, Larme is definitely also a fan of flowy, airy materials often found in lingerie- but Larme is also a type of fashion which balances itself out with the specific clean shapes. On the left you can see a cream coloured combination with a funny sweater, which has violet pompoms, and a bottom the ruffles of which remind me of some of Katie's dresses. As with the outfit in the right- the shape and the structure are still there, and the balance is there as well- for the fabric is sheer, soft and airy.
(Simone Rocha FW RTW 2016 / Ulyana Sergeenko FW Couture 2015)
Material: While usually the material is lacey, velvet, sheer materials or plain cotton, the two very unique stars of Larme are the satin and the fur (faux fur?)- which can be either a dominant part of the whole outfit or incorporated in small accents (as with the little fur ball bag on the right, which can fir right into many Larme outfits, including looks inspired from RoseMarieSeoir).
(Olympia le-tan FW RTW 2014 / Christian Dior FW RTW 2011)
Theme: While not always present and obvious, Larme does tend to include sometimes a theme in its outfits or, probably, the inspiration between the collection will be a book, a film or a style of some sort. Something like "In the library", "Ballet Class", "Murdering my husband" (okay, maybe not the last one...). But I think I can safely say it is a pretty common thing to do in Japanese street fashion generally. While the one on the left is rather a no-brainer, an "Alice in wonderland" type of theme (just look at that fluffy soft top and the velvety puffy skirt!), while the one on the right reminds me personally of a sea plant of sorts (coral perhaps?), all the ruffles and the 90's inspiration in this outfit are a pretty popular Larme element (I haven't seen anything this excessive ruffle wise, though).
(Christopher Cane, SS RTW 2010)
Now, this is just some shoe porn! It looks like something between Jerrfey Campbell and Swankiss style, with the swirly baby pink heel which reminds me so much of candy!
Perhaps both Larme trends and the shows mentioned above have been influenced by similar ideas, movies. books and vibes. It is sometimes rather difficult to figure out, because of the rapid globalization and hybridization happening in our days. But that doesn't change the outcome, you may find bits and pieces of yourself in clothes and aesthetics which, while perhaps are viewed sometimes as superficial, have a long and complicated history of art, inspirations and ideas behind them.
