Monday, August 1, 2016

My picks from Katie Fall-Winter 2016 collection + inspirations (?)


 


Warm showers before bed, angry tears, teenage girls' bedrooms filled with half empty perfume bottles, piles of soft clothes, stickers on shelves and worn out care bear plushies. This is how I imagine Katie wanted this collection (or at least the set-up) to feel like.
As some of you may already know, Katie has released its new collection for the fall and winter time. As always, please keep in mind this review is completely subjective and based on the vibe I got from the collection.

It looks like Katie has decided to focus on the rebellious teen at prom kind of theme, seeing as they named the collection "Alternative Queen" (enhanced by what looks like a very glittery prom background!). Judging by the photoshoot and several pieces, there is a strong presence of the aesthetic of Riot Grrrl movement and sort of 90's Courtney Love\Hole vibe (with her famous babydoll dress and overall Kinderwhore style) combined with a very teenage-girls-making-zines-and-shrines-in-bedrooms vibe (which is not a new thing for Katie). However, other pieces are seemingly not extremely related to the overall theme of "Alternative teen prom" (but can definitely be styled that way) although a Punky feeling is present by the chunky dr. Martins which make an appearance in the collection. I have decided to include the film "Carrie" from 1976 among the possible influences as I think it has an aesthetic that fits very well with the outcast-prom theme. "The Virgin Suicides" film provides a presistant and constantly relevant set of aesthetics to both Katie and Larme (as illustrated in the latest Larme issue's editorial inspired by the film, and... well, the obvious vibe of it all), but here I've included only the prom screencap. Also, as always, the "Lolita"-nymphet fashion tendencies are present as well as the 50's influence and lace-up lingerie.


    
(Left: One of Riot Grrrl's manifestos /  Right: Hole album cover )

   
(Left: Courtney Love @ tumblr   / Right: Meadham Kirchhoff SS 2012 collection @ Pinterest)

 
 ( Left: Courtney Love / Right: 50's ad)

  
(Left: Carrie, 1976 / Right: Courtney Love @ Pinterest)

 
(Screencaps from the Virgin Suicides, 2000) 


As with the previous Katie collection, I like this collection, but quite a bit less than other collections Katie released previously. But all is still very good and I like it quite a lot. As you may see below, several items are re-released from the previous collections.
Anyhow! To my favorites from this collection (I have included several of the re-released pieces that I like also):

  
 
  
            
  
  
         

I actually think that the contrasting play, whether intentional or not, on the sexist restricting 50's decade towards women (the aesthetic of which is constantly present in Katie's collections as well as in Larme generally) and the philosophy behind the feminist movement of Riot Grrrl is pretty interesting and definitely worth noting.

Tip ♥: If you really like this kind of aesthetic, try looking into the Rookie Magazine or the wonderful Tavi Gevinson.